New Jersey Toilet Repair Near Me

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Toilet Repair Services Near Toms River, New Jersey

South Toms River, Beachwood, Silver Ridge, Forest Acres, Maple Shade, Pine Beach, Oak Ridge, Cedar Grove, Holiday City South, Island Heights

When things go wrong with your home toilet, it could be among the most common– and disturbing– plumbing problems you may experience in your home. Whether it is overflowing or running continually, a toilet repair is an problem you can not put aside.

It would be best if you always try and keep them in good working order as they are among the most considerable fixtures in a plumbing system. We do not pay them much thought till something goes wrong and they stop working.

The feared clogged-up toilet is among property owners’ most common domestic challenges. Many will try to fix the problem, only to find that the fix did not work or that the issue reappeared.

When the problem requires more than just a plunger service, it’s best to call a local plumber near me for all toilet repair or installation needs. With years of experience servicing Ocean County, New Jersey locations, our local plumbing qualified team can handle toilet repair fast and efficiently, and at a reasonable cost.

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Most Common Problems with Toilets in Homes

Plenty of toilet repairs, installations, and services are best left for the pros to deal with. Nonetheless, not all services need emergency plumbing services.

Let us to go through a few of the standard issues encountered by clients who have contacted us for suggestions on how to deal with them:

Moaning sounds:

If you hear groaning noises from a toilet, it could be due to a rise in water pressure, which makes a valve shudder or shake.

Random or consistent flushing:

Either of these 2 issues will potentially cause the unit to flush and start filling up on its own:

the refill tube is too long, or
a leaking flapper

This flushing at random leads to water damage and waste, resulting in a higher monthly water service bill.

Compound flushing:

Perhaps you only flush once; however, the toilet flushes two times or even three times. A high water level is usually the source of this problem. Changing the float control within the tank will usually fix this issue.

Water dripping into the bowl, or “Phantom Flushes”:

A sluggish leakage from the tank into the bowl is the source of the issue here. A malfunctioning flapper or flapper seat is unquestionably to blame.

Replacing a worn or broken flapper is the best solution to avoid plumbing issues. Empty the water tank, clean and check the seat, then change the flapper.

Sluggish flushes:

A low water level or the lift chain that links the flush handle and the flapper valve causes a toilet only to flush partially. Loosen the lift chain to let the flapper settle correctly inside the bowl.

Base leaks:

The gasket made of wax between the drain pipeline at the base of the unit must be changed if it leaks when flushed. This process requires an experienced plumbing service.

Not flushing completely:

Check if the lift chain has any slack, and make adjustments as needed.
Check for an appropriate water level in the tank.
After that, ensure that the flapper is fitted correctly and is the best size and type for the unit.

The Bowl Empties Slow:

Blocked holes under the bowl’s surface area are the most typical cause of a slow-emptying bowl, also referred to as a bad flush. To clean any clutter, gently jab each flush opening with a bent piece of wire.

If you are still unable to resolve these issues, it will be best to contact a local plumber near me.

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Pro Plumbing Service Tips for Fixing Typical Toilet Issue Yourself

A toilet consists of 2 major parts: the bowl unit, which rests on the flooring, and the top storage tank which holds the water. The bowl is a solid drain piece of the fixture made of porcelain with no moving parts.

Few repairs involve the bowl, with a few exceptions. On the other hand, the storage tank is where 2 essential valves exist and the handle for flushing. The storage tank is where most of the toilet repairs occur.

You will be surprised to learn that most problems are fairly easy to fix without the need to call an emergency plumber.

Running Toilet Repair Service:

If you’ve tried out a brand-new flapper for a running toilet and it still runs, do not give up hope. Here’s a solution that makes sure it works.

Few home annoyances are quite as irritating as the noise of continuously running water. If you hear filling up frequently, or if you hear the consistent hiss of running water, the flapper in the unit could be leaking.

The flapper (also known as the “flush valve seal”) is the plug that falls against the drain opening (flush valve drain seat) on the bottom of the storage tank. It holds water till the next time you flush. When flappers or flush valve seats wear, water leaks out, making the valve to open and refill the storage tank.

Step 1: Changing Flapper:

First, remove the old flapper and bring it with you to the hardware shop or home center to get a similar one.

Note: Sometimes, a brand-new flapper does not fix the issue. If you have tried changing the flapper, but it still runs, the flush valve seat is possibly rough or pitted.

You can change the complete flush flapper valve; however, it is not an easy job, and it might need the experience of a plumber near Toms River, New Jersey.

Step 2: Flapper Set with Flush Seat Repairing:

If changing the flapper alone failed to work, search for a flapper kit with a flush seat repair.

Note: You want to purchase a Flush valve repair kit. The kit has a flapper and matching seat that you stick to the broken seat with the glue supplied.

First, shut the water supply to the toilet.
Hold the flapper open while flushing to enable the remaining water to drain from the storage tank.
Use a sponge to eliminate the water that stays entirely.
Follow the included instructions to install the new flapper valve seat.
- Pro tip: If the unit uses 3.5 gallons or less of water per flush, you will need a set that includes a plastic cup to change the flapper’s time to stay open. If your unit uses more than this, get rid of the timing cup.
  Set up the new flapper.
With the flapper down, adjust the chain length, so it’s somewhat relaxed.
Turn on the water to check the flush.

Note: You might need to fiddle with the chain length-size to get the flapper working correctly.

When finished, remove the excess chain to keep it from getting stuck under the flapper.

Toilet Repair Services: Broken Handle

If wiggling the handle does not stop your toilet from running, any one of these easy fixes possibly will.

The handle is a primary device– only a few things can malfunction and need to be repaired. The solution is much easier than you think.

Step 1: Loose Handle:

If the handle is loose, the installation of a new one is fairly easy. Tighten up the nut and washer inside the storage tank with a pair of pliers without over-tighten it; you might strip the threads or, even worse, damage the porcelain storage tank.

If the handle sticks in the down flush position, it might not be mounted properly. Loosen up the nut washer, reposition the handle to align with the top of the storage tank, and re-tighten the nut.

Step 2: Stripped Threads:

If the nut does not tighten up or keeps coming loose, it’s a sign that the nut threads are stripped. For a quick fix, wrap the threads on the handle screw with “plumber’s tape” or electrical tape.

Then, slide the washer and nut back on and tighten up the nut. It is often best to replace the handle with a brand-new one if the threads are too damaged or broken.

Step 3: Handle Arm:

Check out the handle arm for issues, splits, or breaks.
If there are issues, change the entire handle and the arm assembly.
- Pro tip: Remember where your handle mounts on the storage tank before purchasing a replacement handle. There are numerous kinds: front mount left, front mount right, front mount universal, and side mount.

Step 4: The Chain:

Suppose the handle appears to be running correctly, yet the toilet still does not flush. In that case, the chain attaching the handle arm to the flapper could be detached or damaged.

- Pro Tip: Before working on the chain, empty the storage tank, shut off the water valve, and pull up the flapper, allowing the water to drain.

If the chain detaches from the handle arm, reconnect the chain from the flapper into the holes on the handle arm, using the chain hook.
Leave a little slack in the chain.
If the chain detaches from the flapper, reconnect the chain to the flapper.
If the chain or the flapper is defective, change it.

Buying Tips for Toilets

Fed up with your old, leaking, water hog of a toilet and want to get a brand-new one? A toilet replacement is not a major job and today you’ll find water-efficient units with an array of options. Use the following tips for the next time you go shopping for a new unit.

Insulated storage tank:

If summer times are damp where you live, and you do not have air conditioning, you’ve possibly spotted “sweating moisture” quite a bit on the side of the unit. Condensation forming on the exterior of a toilet can drip down, making a water mess and even rotting your flooring.

Today, most toilets are made available with insulated tanks to avoid condensation issues. Look into this alternative if you have “sweating” problems.

Bowl height:

Bowl height is the distance from the flooring to the top of the bowl’s rim– the typical height is 14 to 15 inches. Yet today, you’ll find units 16 to 18 inches high, commonly called “comfort level” “ADA height” or something similar.

The additional heights offered make getting on and off much more accessible and comfortable for many people, especially aging people. Designs for kids with heights of 10 to 14 inches are also available.

One-piece vs. two-piece:

A two-piece (a separate storage tank and bowl) is the most typical style in houses. Yet one-piece styles are offered. Two-piece styles are usually less expensive; one-piece styles typically have shorter storage tanks and are much easier to clean.

One-piece styles are the choice of many property owners because of their smooth, streamlined appeal.

Price:

When it pertains to toilets, expensive does not instantly suggest better efficiency. Several of the best models we have tested were reasonably cost-effective and performed well. In comparison, more expensive ones were only marginally efficient.

Color:

Style is fickle. Stick with a white or off-white color style to avoid being stuck to a color you’ll resent a few years later.

Flush-handle location:

If you have a large bathroom and have ample room above or beside your toilet, this perhaps isn’t all that crucial. Make sure to pick a style with a top handle or one opposite the wall if the room is limited.

Buying a suitable style is very important, to spare yourself a return trip to the store, so pay attention when choosing style options.

Rough-in:

The “rough-in” measurement is the distance between the flange screws that anchors the toilet bowl to the flooring and the wall surface behind it. A 12-inch “rough-in” is the most typical measurement; nonetheless, in some older properties, you might have a 10-inch or even a 14-inch “rough-in.”

Tip: Make sure to measure your “rough-in” and always account for the thickness of your baseboard, paneling, or tile backing before purchasing the unit.

Bowl design:

A lot of unit styles marketed today have either round-front bowls or elongated-front bowls.

Round-front bowls are great if the area is snug.
Elongated bowls have a more extended rim– as much as two-inch longer– and need more room.

On the plus side, elongated bowls are usually much more comfortable for adult use which helps boost health and wellness. Review your supplier’s websites for bowl measurements, and measure your space before choosing the bowl design.

Footprint:

If you mount a brand-new toilet with a smaller sized storage tank, you might need to paint the part of the wall surface covered by the old storage tank.

The same will apply if the old unit style had a big footprint on the floor, you might need to patch and fix the flooring part surrounded by the footprint of the old unit. You might also need to change the entire flooring before installing a brand-new unit.