Faucet Install: Plumbing Professional Tips
The guidelines that are available in the box with a new faucet need to tell you everything you need to know for a regular installation. Trouble is, there’s no such thing as a regular installation due to the fact that every job has its complications.
To obtain the options to the most usual issues, we sat down with a pro local plumbing technician in [county], [region] that encounters these faucet situations each day. Make use of these expert pointers to make your faucet replacement an easy half-day job instead of an all-day ordeal.
Locate the Source of the Problem
If your faucet has weak pressure or flow, a new faucet probably isn’t the answer. Here’s just how you can track down the origin of the trouble:
- If both the hot and the cold are weak, the aerator is probably obstructed. Simply remove it and clean it to fix the problem.
- If either the hot or the cold (but not both) is weak, then defective supply lines, shutoffs, or supply pipelines are the problem. Supply hoses or shutoff valves are easy enough to replace.
Fixing defective or antiquated plumbing is a bigger job, but it can benefit some other components in the home that have low water pressure.
Measure Before You Buy
Before you choose a new faucet, inspect the configuration and spacing on your sink. If you have a three-hole configuration, measure from the middle of each handle to find out your spacing.
Standard spacing is generally 4 or 8 in. If you want a single-hole faucet but your sink consists of 3 holes, not a problem. Several faucets include a cover plate to hide the other two holes.
Get Everything You Assume You Might Require
When you go to grab your brand-new faucet, bring a list of every possible setup item you may need. One trip to return a couple of things is much much easier than several runs to the home improvement store for the stuff you believed you wouldn’t need.
Get a Basin Wrench
A basin wrench gets at impossible-to-reach nuts underneath the faucet. It will certainly get to those difficult nuts and handle almost any other fitting you may come across throughout a faucet install.
Some jobs are better left to the pros...
Get No-Commitment Estimates For Your Project.
Mount the Faucet First
If you’re mounting a new sink, install the faucet to the sink prior to dropping the sink into place. Having all things in plain sight always creates better hookups– and the less time you spend on your back under that sink, the better.
Evaluate the Shutoffs
Nearly every faucet is linked to shutoff valves below the sink. Yet those old shutoffs often don’t function, and it’s best to know that before you start. If your shutoffs don’t prevent the water circulation, you can fix them or replace them.
Or you can switch off the water to the entire home at the main shutoff valve while you replace the faucet.
Clean Off Your Sink Deck
To make sure a good seal between the sink and the brand-new faucet, make sure to clean up the footprint of the old faucet. Scouring powder works well for soap scum and waste.
For harder lime or rust deposits, a pumice rock is the most ideal solution.
Utilize Plumber’s Putty
Some manufacturers recommend using silicone caulk to seal a faucet or drainpipe, but beware: It can be difficult to use and can discolor natural rock. We choose plumber’s putty. It’s simpler to work with, and the non-staining variety won’t leave marks.
It’s also much simpler to fix a faucet installation that was set up with putty. Silicone is as much a glue as it is a sealer and can make pulling things apart difficult.
Change Your P-Trap
Make space under the sink by taking out the P-trap. Reusing an old P-trap can be a messy ordeal for your brand-new sink install. The expense of a plastic P-trap kit is less than $5, and you’ll have peace of mind knowing all those installations are brand-new and clean.
Remember that most bathroom sink drains pipes are 1-1/4 in., and kitchen sink drains pipes 1-1/2 in.
Change Your Supply Lines
Never ever reuse old supply lines. The last thing you want is water damage from a failed supply line. Even if the hoses are new looking, it is suggested to replace them because the rubber washers can fail over time.
Quality supply lines with a braided stainless steel case might set you back a bit a lot more (about $8 each), but they’re well worth it.
Get Leakproof Links
Each connection requires a different amount of torque to tighten. Over-tightening the slip nuts on a plastic waste line can strip the threads and make for a leaking connection. Always hand-tighten these hookups.
For flexible supply lines, the basic recommendation is to get them to finger tight, after that give them a quarter turn with a wrench.
Do not Skimp on the Teflon Tape
A 40-ft. roll of Teflon tape sells for a couple of bucks, so don’t be stingy with it. Be sure you wrap all your threaded connections clockwise several times (3 ).
When you thread on that nut, it ought to really feel firm, and the clockwise wrap will certainly maintain the tape from unraveling as you tighten the connection. Teflon tape is simply much more cheap insurance versus any leaks, so don’t be cheap.
Remove the Aerator and Flush Out Sediment
Plumbing work knocks debris loose inside pipelines. Make sure that water-sediment doesn’t block your aerator or valves. Remove the aerator and then allow both the hot and the cold run for a min to flush the lines before reinstalling the aerator.
The Final Step: Look For Leaks
When every thing is linked and your water is back on, do a thorough leakage check. Wipe it all down with a dry cloth, and then blot your connections with toilet paper to see if there is any proof of a slow leakage.